Discovering Espuña

Compiled by Mick Ball and Mark Langton.www.espuna-adventure.com

The regional park of Sierra Espuña lies between the towns of Alhama de Murcia, Pliego, and Totana. Covering an area of 17,804 hectares, the Espuña has many deep valleys, gullies and high summits.

The materials making up the Espuña are mainly dolomites, clays, and limestones, and marine fossils can easily be found in many locations within the park. Many millions of years ago, an inland sea surrounded the Sierra Espuña, stretching as far as Granada and exiting between Alicante and Murcia. On evaporation, the sea left large deposits of yeso and salt, the latter being evident around Torrevieja. Pine trees began to grow within the area but about 3000 years ago, humans began deforestation in order to graze animals and agriculture. Severe erosion of the land took place when the torrential rains came, and the Espuna stayed in that condition up to about 1900 AD.

Ricardo Codorniu was a forestal engineer, known as 'the apostle of the tree'. He was the driving force for the re-forestation of the area, and during the 1900s gangs of men began planting trees throughout the park. To try to make the trees more stable, terraces were constructed in order to stop slippage of soil in steep valleys. The type of tree planted was pine, of 3 types. "Before and after" photos can be seen in the Centro de Interpretacion (information centre) which is located in the park.

El Morron De Espuña is the highest peak in the park at 1583 metres, but a military station at its peak  means access is restricted. The Espuña has 18 peaks at over 1000 metres with Pedro Lopez at 1569 metres and Morron Chico at 1444 metres accessible to experienced walkers. The latter gives long distance views, including on a clear day the Sea at Puerto Mazarron.

Many visitors to the park come to look at the 'Pozos De La Nieve@ or 'ice houses'. These were used to produce ice from the late 1500s up to the 1920s, when a refrigeration plant was built in Totana. The 'Ice pots' are in two groups, named, Murcia and Cartagena, with only one still being complete. Parking is easy, and the walk to the pots is very short so most people will find it an easy walk. The ice houses are at high altitude, but one solitary ruined pot exists in the Leyva Valley.

Visiting the Centro de Interpretacion can provide you with details on how the 'Pozos' worked, and staff can point you in the right direction to visit them.

The Sierra Espuna contains approximately 1000 species of vegetation, which represents one third of that found in the Murcia region, of these species, 36 are protected by legislation and are afforded special protection.

The Pine is the dominant tree, being of three types, Carrasco, Rodeno and Negral. Also common is Rosemary, Juniper and Thyme. Exotic flowers are also present including the orchid "Ophris lutea", "Los Zapaticos de la Virgen" and the flower "Gordolobo". In the cultivated areas, Almond are probably the most common trees, together with Olives and Oranges, at higher altitudes Walnuts are also cultivated, and around El Berro grapes, figs, oranges and lemons for their own use.

The fauna in the area is very varied with 8 species of anfibions, 17 of reptiles, 123 of birds and 38 mammals. In 1998 a european community directive declared the Espuna an area of special protection for 2 types of bird, the Royal Owl and the Royal Eagle. The "Squirrel of Espuna" is quite common living off the pine cones, remanants of which are easily spotted on the ground. Othe animals include Wild Boar, Shrew, Fox, Rabbit, Weasel and the animal that you are most likely to see the Arrui. The list of birds is quite varied and include the Goshawk, Royal Owl, Peregrine Falcon, Blackbird and Partridge. Reptiles include the "Bastard Snake" (Culebra Bastarda), "Snout Viper" (Vibora Hocicuda), Lizards and Toads. Two types of butterflys are here in the park, the Vanesa and Bereber, together with the Praying Mantis ( Mantis religiosa). The birds that can be seen flying around the summits in the park are the Royal Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, Ravens, Rooks and Martins. People in the area with puppies and kittens have to be aware that Eagles can and have previously swooped and carried off small pets. During the summer Scorpions can be a problem and there veen exists an Aquatic scorpion.

When visiting the park it is very important to reduce the impact of your visit on the animals and vegitation. During the summer months danger of fire is very high , and barbeques at the designated areas are strictly forbidden. The forestal tracks within the park are now gated so that walking and cycling in these areas can be done in a peaceful atmosphere. Gating the tracks obviously makes it better for walking and cycling but also reduces the opportunity for illegal hunting. In the past people have been arrested by forestal officers and Guardia civil, for being in possession of high powered rifles within the park.

In the Next article we will cover things to see and do in the park, places to eat, and accommodation in and around the park complete with pictures

Compiled by Mick Ball and Mark Langton.www.espuna-adventure.com
Professional guided walks on the Sierra Espuna.

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